Following Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor

Begin in Esztergom, Hungary—a city rich with history and crowned by its iconic basilica—just as Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor did in "Between the Woods and the Water." From this historic starting point, follow his journey eastward along the Danube, moving through the heart of Hungary and into the diverse, scenic landscapes that lead to Romania’s border at the Iron Gates.

As Fermor’s path continues, it weaves through Hungary's vast flatlands, where he encountered Hungarian noblemen in their grand estates on the Pusta. This part of the journey is a rare immersion into a fading world of aristocratic life, set against the beautiful, open plains. Each step closer to the Iron Gates reveals Fermor’s encounters with changing landscapes and rich, layered cultures—an experience of Europe's contrasts and heritage.

This journey from Esztergom to the Iron Gates offers travelers today an unforgettable glimpse into both natural beauty and historical resonance.

The Hungarian Pusta

Contrary to his philosophy of living on the road with simple people, in this part of his journey, Patty was a guest in the small chateaux of the Hungarian noblemen from the Pusta, the Hungarian flat plain. Like him, who witnessed the dawn of their age, today we witness the final chapter - as some of their beautiful properties fall into ruin.

Transilvania escape!

Young Patty escaped on an automobile trip to Transilvania for a few days and visited the main attractions of his time. To this day, these remain the main tourist sites of the province - without the crowds, of course!

The Danube and the Iron Gates!

The book is written 50 years after the journey, so Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor, knew what has become of Orșova, the old city sacrificed for the building of the Iron Gate Dam. The sad story contrasts with the splendor of the Danube Gorge guarded in recent years by the biggest cliff sculpture in Europe depicting the last king of the Dacians, Decebalus.

Following Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor

The Hungarian Pusta

Savarsin

Odvos

Capalnas

Bulci

Transilvania escape!

Corvin castle

Turda salt mine

Sighisoara

The Danube and the Iron Gates!

King Decebalus

Iron Gates

Danube Gorge